Towns and Cities

Malagasy towns and cities described for the traveller

"CHURCH HILL", FIANARANTSOA by courtesy of BOB HEWSON

Antananarivo

Also known as 'Tana', the Malagasy capital is about 1250 m above sea level in the Central Highlands. With a population of around 2 million people, Tana is the centre of the Merina tribe, who resemble the Malayo-Polynesian component of the first Malagasy settlers. The city is set in a basin surrounded by 12 hills. Much of the surrounding countryside is devoted to rice paddies. The houses of highland towns are typically multi-storeyed brick constructions, often with wooden staircases and balconies, built along narrow, cobbled streets and alleyways. Visit the markets, the Parc de Tsimbazaza zoo, museum, botanical gardens and enjoy the restaurants and night-life.

SPA BATHS, ANTSIRABE by courtesy of BOB HEWSON

Antsirabe

In the colonial era, Antsirabe, 170 km south of Tana, was important for its thermal baths and almost temperate climate. Visitors still enjoy a bath or massage at the spa, but the town is now famed for its many and varied craft centres - including Joseph's Semi-precious Gemstone Shop. The colourful rickshaws are known as 'pousse pousses'. There are two volcanic lakes to the west of the town.

Antsiranana/Diego Suarez

The capital of Madagascar’s northernmost province, Antsiranana – the name means ‘port’ – has one of the world’s most beautiful deep-water harbours. A ring of mountains surrounds the town, which has a very diverse population of about 80,000 Sakalava, Antakarana, French, Arabs, Chinese and Comoriens.
Since the town is the gateway to Montagne d’Ambre and Ankarana national parks, many visitors simply pass through Antsiranana without exploring its decaying colonial architecture (the old covered market and the former Hotel de la Marine for seafarers are notable examples), its vibrant market and the wealth of crafts workshops. There is a variety of hotels and restaurants in town, and at Ramena beach, about 18 km to the east. There are baobabs on the route between Diego and Ramena.
Almost equidistant between Ramena and Diego is the Montagne des Français. The ascent offers superb views over the bay, and the prospect of good birding and sightings of Sanford’s brown lemurs. The cliffs and cave attract rock climbers.
At the rock formation known as ‘Windsor Castle’, you will find some tsingy and a variety of drought-resistant endemic plants. From the top, the panorama stretches from Montagne d’Ambre in the south to the remote Cap d’Ambre, the northern tip of Madagascar.
East of Ramena is a series of deserted bays: Baie des Dunes, Baie de Sakalava, Baie des Pigeons.

Fort Dauphin

No other town in Madagascar has such a stunning setting. Fort Dauphin (Tolanaro) is set on a small peninsula backed by high mountains and bordered by long, sandy beaches. Fort Dauphin is the lobster capital of Madagascar and excellent restaurants like the Gina, the Miramar and the Mahavoky offer delectable seafood dishes. The town is the gateway to Berenty and Andohahela Reservfes and to the bizarre spiny desert.

Tulear

Tulear (Toliara, in Malagasy) is a city of about 100,000 people - with probably has the greatest number of different ethnic groups of any Malagasy town - on the south-western coast of Madagascar and an important port. It stands at the end of the RN7, 1000 km from Antananarivo, and is the crossroads between the RN6, the route north to the beaches and spiny forest of Ifaty (and, eventually, the beaches and reefs of Ampsilava and Andavadoaka) and the route south to the beach resort of Anakao and Tsimanampetsotsa National Park. For birders, the city is the gateway to the birding hotspots of Ifaty, St. Augustin Bay and the islet of Nosy Ve.
Tulear is most attractive from the end of September to March, when the flame trees are in bloom, decking the city in vivid colour. There are a number of comfortable hotels with swimming pools where you can break your journey and relax for a night or two. You could spend a few hours wandering around the busy streets admiring the painted pousse-pousses or mingling with the shoppers in the vibrant markets, one of the best places in Madagascar to buy a traditional lamba – or one of the fabulous mohair rugs from Ampanihy.
There are two small university-run museums to browse. The Musée de Tulear houses an ethnological collection including a number of examples of burial art and local artefacts, a mock-up of a Vezo fisherman’s hut and a collection of photos representing local life. The Musée de la Mer displays many specimens of fish, crustaceans and eels – and a collection of the sponges and corals that were once the glory of this coast. The prime attraction is the only preserved coelacanth on display in Madagascar.
Twelve kilometres east of town is the marvellous Arboretum d’Antsokay, a showcase for the flora of the hot, dry southwest. Some of Madagascar's most impressive tombs are within easy reach of Toliara.

Morondava

Reminiscent of a 'wild west' movie set, Morondava is the centre of the Menabe Sakalava people. The Morondava basin is baobab country and the hottest region of Madagascar. The town has several seaside hotels and is the gateway to Kirindy Forest and Belo Sur Mer.